Alegría

On Tuesday evenings, the municipal band plays in the gazebo in the Jardín de la Unión, the viejito couples dance, and the world is right.

This is perhaps my favorite thing in Guanajuato.

The densely shaded plaza provides a cool twilight reprieve from the heat of the day; crowds of people begin to stroll around the jardín and gather in the sidewalk cafés and on the park benches. The roving mariachi and norteño groups take a break, and the city band strikes up a tune. Then the old couples get up to dance. Their arms and legs seem stiff at first; their steps are small. But then the gentleman turns the lady with the lightest touch of his hand, and she raises her fingers in a flourish. They move in perfect rhythm. Their faces are straight and formal, but their eyes sparkle.

One gentleman in particular amazes me. Sometimes he wears bright red pants. Tonight he wore blue. His wife wore a beige dress and pink, sparkly shoes. He can dance. He sways his hips, kicks his legs, and occasionally drops one knee to the ground. He leads his wife through lovely turns and crosses. They take a bow after every dance. Everybody smiles and applauds.